As you enter this L-shaped lake and push away from shore, the coast to your left will feel like a healthy, undeveloped forest of pines and shrubs. There’s no hiking trail here, and beyond the first few hundreds meters you’re likely to see more deer than humans.
Look to your right, and you’ll get a feel for Butte’s volcanic surrounds. The nearby Cinder Cone Volcano will soon come into view. You’ll know it immediately, as its graveled and sandy, perfectly even 600-foot slopes appear to give life to…nothing.
When the Cinder Cone last erupted, it left behind jumbles of dark basaltic rocks, the Fantastic Lava Beds now lining the lake’s edge on your right.
It’s the rubble I’m drawn to.
Paddling away from the pines at left, I headed towards the piles of broken magma. I discovered inlets. Some passages wrapped back around to the main lake area, while others quickly dead-ended in algae-coated corners. As I looked closer into this zone, I spotted not only algae and mosses, but mature trees popping right out of the rocks. Ducks were diving along the shore and hawk soared above — I was reminded how quickly the forest rebounds.
And, sitting in my kayak out in the water, I could see it all so clearly.
The lake is clear and reflective, with a hint of green. There are no human noises, just the songs of birds and a few deer rustling amongst the leaves.
On this weekday in August, I found myself nearly alone on the lake, sharing it only with one couple on their SUPs. You’ll have plenty of opportunities for solitude when you break along its shores.
What Butte Lake lacks in white sandy beaches, it more than makes up for in geologic drama. Lassen Volcanic National Park is special to me because of the opportunity to paddle, hike, and explore a primordial environment. It’s a wonder more visitors don’t make it to this corner of the state – I encourage you to be one of the few.